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The new Netflix cooking show starring Meghan Markle, titled "At Home with the Duchess," was touted as a platform for Meghan to showcase her culinary prowess and passion for food. However, the series has instead become the subject of ridicule and criticism from some of the culinary industry's most respected chefs. The backlash began shortly after the show's premiere, with several James Beard award-winning chefs taking to social media and various media outlets to poke fun at Meghan's cooking skills and the overall quality of the program.
The chefs, known for their mastery of the culinary arts, did not hold back in their assessment, with some going as far as to label the show as "trash" and a "catastrophe." One such chef, Anthony Bourdain, who was renowned for his no-nonsense approach to the industry, was particularly scathing in his critique. In a series of blog posts, Bourdain lambasted the Duchess, accusing her of attempting to capitalize on her royal status to gain undeserved recognition in the culinary world. He went on to criticize the show's production values, the lack of substance in the recipes, and Meghan's overall lack of expertise in the kitchen.
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"It's clear that Meghan has no real understanding of the art of cooking," Bourdain wrote. "She's trying to ride the coattails of her royal status to gain attention, but the chefs who have dedicated their lives to this craft are not having it." Bourdain's sentiments were echoed by other award-winning chefs who took to social media to express disdain for the show.
Suzi Saran, the owner of the acclaimed Derie restaurant in New York City, commented on Bourdain's blog post, stating that the James Beard Foundation, which hosts the prestigious culinary awards, "has much still left to do that would make it worthy of much more support and credibility."
The criticism has not been limited to the culinary world, however. Kat Kinsman, a respected food writer, also weighed in on the controversy, defending her fellow food journalists and arguing that Meghan's show is a "farce" that fails to address the real issues facing the industry. "Plenty of us have read our britchy and lebling same as you," Kinsman wrote, referring to renowned food critics. She continued, "Plenty of us getting dirt under the nails or at least reporting on the farmers, workers and cooks who do, doing what we can on teeny budgets."
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The backlash has been particularly stinging for Meghan, who had hoped to use the show as a platform to showcase her passion for food and her commitment to promoting diversity and inclusivity in the culinary world. Instead, the Duchess has found herself at the center of a heated debate, with her credibility and culinary skills being called into question by some of the industry's most respected voices.
Despite the criticism, Meghan has remained steadfast in her commitment to the show, vowing to continue using her platform to promote diversity and inclusivity in the culinary world. However, the backlash from the James Beard award-winning chefs has undoubtedly dealt a blow to her aspirations. It remains to be seen whether the show will be able to overcome the negative publicity and find success with audiences.
The industry stalwarts argue that the issues facing food and cuisine today are much more profound than what Meghan's show addresses. At a time when the pandemic and related economic turmoil have exposed deep flaws in the food system, they say the show does little more than highlight Meghan's inexperience rather than tackle the challenges faced by farmers, food producers and restaurant workers.
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Bourdain was particularly blunt, calling the show “tone deaf” for focusing on stylized photo shoots of Meghan’s casual cooking demonstrations at home instead of leveraging her prominent platform to shed light on the struggles of communities impacted by Covid-19. He noted how many small, family-run restaurants have been forced to permanently close their doors due to the pandemic, putting tens of thousands in the industry out of jobs.
Kinsman agreed, arguing that at a moment when independent food journalism is needed most to support marginalized communities, Meghan's show serves only to promote herself rather than championing important causes. While the Duchess may have good intentions, the established critics argue her efforts would be better spent highlighting underrepresented voices in the culinary world rather than presenting herself as the face of food programming.
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Adding fuel to the fire, some critics have also questioned if Meghan possesses genuine passion for food or is simply exploiting the cause to strengthen her public profile in North America. They note she has no formal culinary training or professional experience working in restaurants, unlike Bourdain and many of her detractors. At best, Meghan comes across as an enthusiastic home cook but falls short of the expertise brought by seasoned industry experts.
As the backlash continues, it remains to be seen whether future episodes of "At Home with the Duchess" address these critiques head-on. Meghan will also need to decide whether to continue using her platform primarily to promote herself or evolve it into a credible vehicle for empowering others in the food community. How she navigates the controversy could help determine if her culinary aspirations are here to stay or if this first foray into the culinary world will ultimately become just a fleeting one.
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